How to Grow Tomatoes in 4 Easy to follow Steps

Table of Contents

• 
  
  • 
    
  • 
    
  • 
    
• 
  
• 
  
  • 
    
  • 
    
    • 
      
    • 
      
    • 
      
    • 
      
    • 
      
    • 
      
• 
  
  • 
    
  • 
    
  • 
    
    • 
      
• 
  

Tomatoes . . . Tomatoes . . . Tomatoes . . . pause . . . Sigh! This is a love, oh so love-hate relationship. Kidding aside, tomatoes are so worth it and it’s relatively simple to learn how to grow tomatoes!! I started my first year of growing tomatoes with just three plants and three different varieties. I learned quickly, that was not nearly enough to satisfy my daily desire for fresh tomatoes off the vine. Somehow, tomatoes straight out of the garden have this hard to describe earthy, slightly sweet, slightly peppery, slightly savory taste that goes way beyond the store bought tomatoes I’ve encountered (and I think I’ve tried them all). When you smell a fresh tomato plant, imagine what that smell would taste like and infuse it into your homegrown tomato. That is what eating a tomato from your garden is like. So, if I haven’t convinced you yet that growing a tomato from your garden is SO worth it, you might be a lost cause!  

I would consider growing tomatoes a medium difficulty level, so starting with some nursery-bought plants your first year or two, may be the best way to go. After that, save the money and purchase all the seed varieties you would like and start them indoors. This will help you economically, but also help you dive into the next level of gardening. It’s hard to cover all the must-knows in tomato growing, but this article should help you get a really good start. 

Step 1:  Pick your type & variety 

Indeterminate vs. determinate types

Indeterminate and determinate tomatoes are two distinct types grown by gardeners and farmers. Indeterminate tomatoes, often referred to as “vining” tomatoes, have a unique growth pattern. These plants continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the growing season, lacking a predefined endpoint. They require sturdy support structures like stakes, trellises or cages due to their sprawling nature. My all-time favorite tomatoes are indeterminate varieties that trellis from one garden box to another, adding beauty and function to my garden.  In contrast, determinate tomatoes, known as “bush” tomatoes, exhibit a more controlled growth habit. These plants cease growth and set fruit once a specific height is reached. They still require cages for support, but smaller cages will be sufficient. Determinate tomatoes are suitable for compact spaces and are often favored for canning purposes. In summary, the key difference lies in growth: indeterminate tomatoes are continuous growers, while determinate tomatoes follow a predetermined growth pattern. [

1

]

Early season, mid-season, and late season varieties

Tomatoes come in various varieties categorized by their ripening periods, such as early season, mid-season, and late season types. Although they love the sun, when the temperature rises above 85°F, they can’t set fruit. Purchase heat tolerant varieties in hotter climates. Early season tomatoes, as the name suggests, bear fruit sooner after planting, typically within 50-65 days. Mid-season varieties produce fruit in approximately 65-80 days, striking a balance between early and late options. Late season tomatoes take the longest, maturing in 80-100 days or more. Pick your variety based on the length of your growing season. In Southern California I can grow tomatoes 9 months of the year, allowing me to have fun with different varieties. Look up the most popular varieties in your area online or go to a local nursery and you can discover the varieties that do best in your home town.  

Tomato Varieties

The countless different varieties of tomatoes can be grouped into two main categories: hybrid and heirloom. 

Heirloom tomatoes are treasured for their historical significance and unique flavors. These tomatoes are open-pollinated, meaning their seeds can be saved and replanted, and they often display distinctive characteristics passed down through generations. Heirlooms offer a diverse array of colors, shapes, and tastes, making them beloved by gardening enthusiasts.

Hybrid tomatoes are the result of crossbreeding two different tomato varieties to create new plants with specific desirable traits, such as disease resistance or improved flavor.

These varieties can be categorized as well by shape, size and consistency into 4 main groups: 

1. Globe or Slicer Tomatoes: These are the most common type of tomatoes found in supermarkets. They are medium-large, round, and typically used for slicing and adding to sandwiches and salads. They are known for their balanced flavor and juicy texture. Some common Heirloom options are Arkansas Traveler, Black Krim, Oxheart, and Rutgers. Hybrid options include some of my favorites Better Boy, Early Girl, and Celebrity among many others.

2. Beefsteak Tomatoes: Beefsteak tomatoes are among the largest tomato varieties, known for their hefty size and meaty flesh. They are ideal for slicing and are often used in burgers and sandwiches due to their substantial nature. They offer a rich, robust flavor. My favorite heirloom options include Brandywine pink and Cherokee purple although there are many I still have not tried. Hybrids provide many options as well including All-star, Big Beef and Marglobe.

3. Plum or Pear or Paste Tomatoes: These tomatoes, also called Roma tomatoes, have an elongated shape and are known for their low moisture content and thick walls. They are commonly used in sauces, pastes, and canning due to their dense texture and sweet taste. I will still pull my plum tomatoes off the vine and eat fresh or in salads, but I’m a nutty tomato lover. Some great plum varieties in hybrid and heirloom are La Roma III, San Marzano, and Red Pear. 

4. Cherry or Grape Tomatoes: These tomatoes are small, round, and come in various colors, including red, yellow, and orange. They are popular for snacking, salads, and garnishing dishes. Cherry tomatoes are sweet and add a burst of flavor to dishes. Some of my favorite’s are Gardener’s Delight, Heartbreaker, and Red Grape. 

Because tomatoes differ in terms of size, shape, moisture content, and flavor profile, making each variety uniquely special, I have found quite a game of trying new varieties every year. All and all, most if not all varieties are screaming to be tried and tasted!

[insert photo]

Step 2: Purchase your seeds or transplants 

Tomato seeds and transplants serve as essential starting points for tomato gardening. Seeds can be acquired from reputable seed companies, garden centers, or online retailers, offering a wide selection of varieties. When purchasing, consider factors such as the tomato type (e.g., determinate or indeterminate), disease resistance, and suitability for your growing conditions. Transplants, available at garden centers, offer a head start and are ideal for beginners. Choose healthy, disease-free plants with sturdy stems that are not already fruiting. 

Tip: Find out what the nursery has been doing for your tomato plants. Find out the specifics of watering and fertilizing care so that you can implement similar care from the get go. Sometimes, severe sudden changes in care practices can cause your tomato plant to struggle in a home garden setting. 

Step 3: Plant your tomatoes 

Planting seeds indoors

Starting tomato seeds indoors is a great way to extend your growing season and produce a longer harvest. Begin by sowing seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last expected spring frost date in your area. Sow ½ inch deep in trays in sterile, well-draining seed-starting mix, providing ample space between seeds to avoid overcrowding. Maintain a consistent soil temperature of around 70-75°F (21-24°C) for germination, using a heat mat if necessary. Adequate light (14-18 hours per day), such as a fluorescent grow light, is crucial for healthy seedlings; keep it close to the seedlings to prevent stretching.

Once the seedlings have developed their first true leaves, consider “hardening off” before transplanting them outdoors. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions by placing them outside for increasing periods each day. This helps the seedlings acclimate to the sun, wind, and temperature fluctuations, ensuring a smoother transition to the garden. Properly starting and transitioning tomato seedlings contributes significantly to a bountiful tomato crop. [2][3]

Other planting considerations

Transplanting:

Transplanting tomatoes from indoors to the garden demands careful planning. Ensure outdoor temperatures consistently reach 50°F (10°C) or higher during both day and night. When transplanting, handle seedlings gently, avoiding damage to their delicate roots. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the entire root ball, burying the stem. Because the tomato roots along it’s stem, the stem can be buried 2/3 the way up allowing for a sturdier root structure. This encourages root development. Water the seedlings thoroughly after transplanting, helping them establish in their new environment. Additionally, consider spacing between plants, as overcrowding can lead to disease and hinder growth. [4]

Spacing Requirements:

Proper spacing between tomato plants is crucial for healthy growth. Indeterminate varieties should be spaced 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) apart, while determinate types can be placed 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) apart. Rows should have 36-48 inches (90-120 cm) between them. Adequate spacing ensures ample air circulation, reducing the risk of fungal diseases. Proper spacing also allows each plant to receive adequate sunlight, encouraging fruit production.

Supports:

Tomato plants often require support to prevent sprawling and fruit touching the soil, which can lead to rot. Common supports include stakes, cages, and trellises. Stakes are best for determinate varieties, while indeterminate tomatoes benefit from cages or trellises. Sturdy support structures should be installed early in the growing season to avoid disturbing the roots later. Proper support keeps plants upright, helps with harvesting, and maximizes space utilization. [5][6]

Fertilizing:

Tomatoes have specific nutrient needs for optimal growth and fruit development. Before planting, enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure to enhance fertility. During the growing season, provide a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. High-quality tomato fertilizers with a balanced N-P-K ratio (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) of 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 are suitable. Fertilize sparingly to avoid excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit production. Fertilizing 1-2 times per season by giving a side dressing of fertilizer is sufficient for most gardeners. [

7

]

Mulching:

Mulching around tomato plants offers numerous benefits. It conserves soil moisture, prevents weed growth, and regulates soil temperature. Organic mulches like straw, hay, or shredded leaves work well. Apply a 2-4 inch (5-10 cm) layer around the base of each plant, leaving a small gap to prevent direct contact with the stem. Mulching also reduces soil splashing onto the leaves, minimizing the risk of soil-borne diseases. [

8

]

Planting in Pots:

Growing tomatoes in pots is a space-saving option. Choose a large container (at least 5 gallons or 19 liters) with good drainage. Fill it with a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost. Plant one tomato seedling per pot, ensuring the depth is consistent with its original planting depth. Place the pots in a sunny location, ensuring they receive 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Water the pots consistently to keep the soil evenly moist, as container-grown tomatoes tend to dry out more quickly than those in the ground. Use a trellis or cage to support the plant as it grows, and follow fertilizing and mulching guidelines for container gardening.

Step 4: Caring for the tomato plant

Watering:

Pruning:

Pruning tomatoes is a vital practice for maintaining plant health and maximizing fruit production in indeterminate types. Determinate types need mild pruning around the base but should not be pruned regularly or the growth will be stunted. Start by removing the lower stems & leaves that touch the soil to prevent disease. Pinch off sucker shoots (indeterminate) that form in leaf axils to direct energy towards fruiting. You can root suckers in water and form a new tomato plant. Prune sparingly, keeping the main stem intact, and use clean tools to minimize the risk of disease transmission. Although pruning is not necessary, it has been known to speed up the ripening process and produce larger tomatoes in some varieties. Another little pruning tip worth noting is that if you cut the tip of every stem at the end of the growing season, the plant will focus its energy to ripening the fruit and you can beat the frost.  Proper pruning encourages air circulation and sunlight penetration, promoting robust, disease-resistant tomato plants. [9]

Tomato plants are susceptible to various pests and diseases. Common pests include aphids, hornworms, and whiteflies. To deter pests, regularly inspect your plants and remove any affected leaves or insects by hand. You can also use organic pest control methods like neem oil or introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs.

Fungal diseases like early blight, late blight, and powdery mildew can plague tomato plants. Prevent these issues by avoiding overhead watering, providing good air circulation, and applying organic fungicides if necessary. Proper spacing and pruning to reduce foliage density can also help. [10]

Common problems to watch for include:

1. Blossom End Rot: This is a condition where the bottom of the tomato fruit turns dark and leathery due to calcium deficiency or irregular watering.

2. Cracking: Cracks or splits in tomatoes occur when there are sudden fluctuations in moisture levels. Maintain consistent moisture to prevent this issue.

3. Yellowing Leaves: Yellow leaves may indicate nutrient deficiencies or overwatering. Adjust watering and consider fertilizing as needed.

4. Wilting: Wilting can result from both overwatering and under-watering. Ensure proper moisture levels and drainage. [11]

Harvesting:

At the end of the growing season, cut the tip of every stem so the plant will focus its energy on ripening fruit quickly before the first frost. Harvesting tomatoes at the right time is crucial for flavor and quality. Tomatoes should be picked when they are fully ripe but still firm. Look for vibrant colors and a slight give when gently squeezed. Ripe tomatoes are easier to separate from the stem. Use a pair of garden shears or a sharp knife to cut the fruit from the plant, leaving a short stem attached. Be careful not to bruise or damage the fruit during harvesting. [12]

Considerations when Harvesting:

Consider the following factors when harvesting tomatoes:

1. Time of Day: Harvest in the morning when temperatures are cooler, as tomatoes are less stressed and firmer.

2. Storage: Handle harvested tomatoes gently to avoid bruising. Store them at room temperature until fully ripe. Do not refrigerate as it changes the flavor and consistency of the tomato. Tomatoes may be frozen and used for canning or sauces at a later time.

3. Saving Seeds: If you wish to save tomato seeds, choose ripe, disease-free fruits and follow proper seed-saving techniques.

Next steps

When you think about home gardens, most fantasize about growing tomatoes as it is one of the most popular home garden vegetables. There are however, some challenges that come with growing tomatoes that make it a moderately difficult crop. I have found that growing tomatoes can be one of the most rewarding aspects of my garden. There’s nothing better than a ripe tomato picked and eaten on the spot. One of my favorite recipes is a fresh Caprese salad (substitute mozzarella with Burrata cheese). I throw on some of my fresh garden basil and a drizzle of balsamic glaze and, mmmm, so good! With a little trial and error you can find your favorite varieties and learn to grow enough tomatoes to feed your whole family. So just try it, try something new and discover more in the world of Kitchen Gardens.